Monday, January 12, 2009

Mid-January in the Garden

Well, we didn't get around to planting much in the fall. About all the edibles we have in the garden right now are apples, lettuce and chives. It will be time to plant peas soon.

Scabiosia "Blue Butterfly" and "Pink Mist" are still in bloom near the house even after several light freezes, and we have some hollyhocks and Iceberg roses, too. A great rose variety. Nearly always in bloom, thornless and fragrant. Hollyhocks and roses are edible in a pinch. Rosehips are a good source for Vitamin C, though other species of roses are more suited for edible hips than the typical hybrid tea/grandiflora/floribunda types.

Apple varieties suited to our hot valley include Fuji, Red Fuji and Pink Lady. We have Red Fuji and Pink Lady. So far, the Red Fuji have had the best quality.

It's almost time for the third mass copper-and-oil spraying of the stone fruit trees. Superbowl weekend is the general timeframe for the last round of spraying other than for blossom blight. Thanksgiving and Christmas are the other two. Apricots, Japanese plums and the Zaiger Pluots often do better than peaches and nectarines around here if you're not too religious about dormant spraying. Apricots and cherries may need spraying during bloom for blossom blight.

Stone fruit variety recommendations are available upon request.

"Boiled" ham - better than it sounds

Mom introduced me to the idea of boiled ham, which she prepared for some holiday (I don't remember which).  Over the years, I've decided that for busy holidays and for potlucks or buffets, "boiled" (actually, gently simmered) ham makes a lot of sense. It frees up the oven for other foods, and the ham is a little less salty than a baked ham.  You run less risk of over-cooking or of scorching a glazed ham in the holiday rush.

A "boiled" ham generally doesn't look as impressive as a baked ham. If you're a fan of glazed ham, try turning your favorite glaze ingredients into a sauce and serve it alongside the ham to partially compensate for the missing sight of a gloriously glazed ham. Then people who want their ham "straight" have a choice. And the leftovers are useful in more ways. You might even throw caution to the wind and offer two different sauces or condiments.

You could hardly pick an easier choice for a buffet or potluck. You can start a slow cooker on high heat and turn to low heat after the ham has heated through, or cook overnight on low heat.  For holidays, you can even cook your ham in a slow-cooker a room other than the kitchen if you need to. Same with one of those large electric roasters that go on sale just before Thanksgiving.

Types of ham to choose:  Spiral-sliced ham DOES NOT work out well when simmered like this. Though I prefer natural, bone-in hams, I have had good luck doing inexpensive (but not the very cheapest) formed hams in an oval slow-cooker.  All the hams I have prepared this way have been pre-cooked.  For saltier "country" hams, typical directions call for covering the ham with water in a pot just larger than the ham, simmering for several hours then turning off the heat and leaving the ham in the liquid.  Look up the full directions before doing a country ham.

Directions:  To simmer a bone-in ham on top of the stove, choose a shank or butt portion which fits into a heavy-bottomed kettle which you already have. You can cut off a piece and place it to the side if the ham is too wide, but it's difficult to accomodate a shank bone which is too tall for your pot. Place cut-side down in about 1/2  inch to an inch of water and simmer gently for several hours. Check and replenish water occasionally. The key to a tasty, tender result is to cook it slowly for a long time, but not to use too much water.  About 1/2 inch of water in the bottom of the pan is usually about right to start.  The ham may release more liquid as it cooks.

I've done small formed hams in a 3-quart slow cooker in half an inch of water, and a small butt portion of a natural ham in an oval 6-quart slow cooker. The natural hams I've cooked this way have been wonderful, and the formed hams have been better than baked formed hams.   Always turn off the heat completely at least half an hour before serving.

I have simmered a 22 pound pre-cooked natural whole ham in an 18-quart electric roaster for 6 hours at 265 degrees, leaving the ham in the roaster with heat turned off for an additional hour and a half. I added just a pint of water.  But remember Mark Twain's definition of eternity as "two people and a ham" and plan your quantities accordingly.

If you let the ham it cook too long, it can get TOO tender, so be prepared to turn the slow cooker or roaster to "warm" after several hours, say, if you cooked it overnight and you're serving it at noon. If you let the ham boil or simmer too long, it could become a little stringy.  It is particularly important in this case to let the ham "rest" in the pot with the heat turned off before trying to slice it.  A too-tender ham is better sliced warm than hot.

Save the liquid and leftovers for bean, lentil or potato and ham soup and other dishes.

Migraine and allergy information: Many migraineurs are sensitive to cured meats, which often contain vasoactive compounds. Don't overdo it with ham even if you've never noticed a problem before. Some people get migraines from all pork, especially when eaten more than once within a few days. Many hams contain corn sweeteners. Check the label.

Stocking up: Hams keep quite well in the refrigerator and can be left out in a cool location for a little while during winter. Fully cooked hams can be served without cooking if the power goes out. Though you might think that hams would keep practically forever in the freezer, long freezer storage is not recommended by sources I have read. They may lose quality in the freezer faster than some fresh meats (not that the ham would become unsafe). Check recent recommendations from authoritative sources.

Friday, January 2, 2009

Blackeyed Pea Confetti Salad (and variations)



Above:  Confetti Salad and "In the Pink" variation
Happy New Year!


Blackeyed Pea Confetti Salad
Amounts of ingredients can be varied to taste.
The honey in this recipe seems to go especially well with blackeyed peas and mild chiles.  Feel free to use sugar instead if you're in a hurry. 

1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon celery salt with regular salt and fresh-ground pepper to taste
1/4 cup salad oil or olive oil
1/4 cup honey

1/4 to 1/3 cup diced onion or scallions, or up to 3/4 cup diced sweet red or white onion
1 pound frozen blackeyed peas, cooked until firm but tender (about 3 cups)
  (or substitute canned blackeyed peas - up to two 15 oz. cans, drained)
about 1/3 to 1/2 cup diced red and/or yellow bell pepper, diced
about 1/3 to 1/2 cup diced Pasilla chile (or Ancho, Poblano, Mulato Isleno, Anaheim
   or other mild green to brown/black chile)

Combine vinegar, seasonings, oil and honey (measure honey in the same cup as the oil). Add onion and allow to sit while cooking blackeyed peas according to package directions - but just until you can mash a pea easily against a spoon with your finger - as little as 5 minutes after bringing to a boil. Watch carefully that you don't cook them too long or they will be mushy. Drain and rinse to cool peas to lukewarm.

Remove seeds and membranes from chile and taste to be sure it isn't too hot for the people who will be eating it. Vary the amount of chile depending on spiciness. Pasillas or Anchos are normally quite sweet with a fruity taste and just a little heat. You can substitute green bell pepper if necessary.

Mix all ingredients. Allow to sit for two hours at room temperature to blend flavors, or refrigerate overnight, stirring a couple of times. Serve over salad greens or steamed vegetables. If you really want to impress people, try using a good raw apple cider vinegar from a natural food store.

Update 2011 New Years Day - Canned garbanzo recipe:  I couldn't find frozen blackeyed peas this year.  I made half a recipe with a can of organic (no sulfite) garbanzo beans and all Ancho peppers.  Traded confetti appearance from red bell pepper for more picante zing.  The garbanzos were quite crunchy.  The Ancho peppers were a little hotter than expected.  I served the salad over greens with shoestring beets and black olives.

Leftovers:  Added a can of green beans and a little more onion and chile to the leftover marinade with remaining garbanzos - a remembrance of "three bean salad" for tomorrow.

Variation:  In-the-Pink Salad
This is a good recipe to make if the power is out, as it requires no cooking or refrigeration.
Add some diced celery before serving if you want more crunch. Serve over greens. A good way to shake off holiday sleepiness, but this salad is good all year.  Try black beans and shoestring beets at Halloween for a spooky-looking salad

1/2 cup distilled white or apple cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon celery salt with regular salt and fresh-ground pepper to taste
Up to 1/4 cup sugar (beets add some sweetness)
1/2 cup liquid drained from beets (below).  See notes.  

1/4 to 1/3 cup diced onion or scallions, or up to 3/4 cup diced sweet red or white onion
Two to 4 cups cooked light-colored beans  - up to two 15-oz cans, rinsed and drained.
     (Lima, Peruano or Pinto for soft texture, Cannellini or garbanzos for firmer texture)

About 1/3 to 2/3 cup diced Pasilla, Ancho, Poblano, Mulato Isleno, Anaheim
   or other mild green to brown/black chile.  Or use green bell pepper.  Or omit peppers.
One 15-oz can sliced or shoestring beets, drained.  Cut sliced beets in quarters or sixths. 

2 Tablespoons to 1/4 cup salad oil or olive oil

Combine marinade ingredients.  Add onions (allow to soak for a while if onions are strong) then the beans, chiles and beets.  You can cover and refrigerate at this point.

When ready to serve salad, remove from the marinade to a serving bowl with a slotted spoon and toss with a little oil.   If you are not refrigerating the salad, waiting until serving time to add the oil is a good idea for food safety. 

NOTES:  To serve after just 2 or 3 hours, leave out the beet juice and leave salad on the counter.  Stir occasionally.  Use liquid from canned beets to increase volume of marinade if you want to leave the salad in the refrigerator for several hours unattended.   Marinate should almost cover bean mixture.  You can add more marinate ingredients proportionally if you need more marinade.   

Stocking up: If the power is out, this salad can be made without cooking if you use canned beans in either of the salads above. The salads will keep for a few hours without refrigeration and it tastes good at room temperature. Don't push the unrefrigerated storage time too long in hot weather.

Vinegar, honey and oil are standard storage items. In place of frozen blackeyed peas, you can use 3 or 4 cups of firm, canned or cooked dried blackeyed peas, small white beans or pink beans - or whatever beans you have. You may not need added salt in the salad. Drain well any beans you use. Rinse canned beans.

If you make the salad with regular beans and bell peppers instead of chiles, try using a tablespoon or two of sugar in place of the honey and adding some Italian seasoning. You can mix green or wax beans with cooked or canned dried beans for a multi-bean salad. In a pinch, dried onions and bell pepper flakes or dried, flaked or powdered hot red pepper can be used instead of the fresh ingredients, though they won't taste the same. Serve this salad with a grain product for a complete protein, or add some drained, canned hominy.

Background: In much of the South and among the Okies of California, it's traditional to eat blackeyed peas (usually as Hoppin' John, -- or at least with ham) on New Years Day, as a good-luck dish. The peas are supposed to resemble coins. I think the original European tradition called for the eating of lentils, which actually do resemble coins a little. I don't place much stock in the power of legumes to help me make money in the coming year. But you could eat worse things than blackeyed peas or lentil soup on New Years Day.

This is a takeoff on three-bean salad. It looks sort of like confetti, making it appropriate for a New Years celebration, and has a little zing and a little sweetness as a way to start off the New Year. Try it with garbanzos, limas or butterbeans, too.   Or maybe light-colored lentils (slightly sprouted or not, cooked until tender but still firm).  Blackeyed Peas, small white beans or lentils would give the most confetti-like appearance to the salad for New Years Day.

Food Sensitivities, Migraine: Blackeyed peas are not really my thing, though David's family is attached to them. The whole cowpea family is a problem for me, especially if I eat the pods. If I eat too many of them, I get a migraine. Same with some other legumes (especially if eaten two days in a row). Migraineurs are warned to watch their reactions to snow peas and Italian beans, but not regular garden (English) peas or green beans. I say, watch your own personal reactions. Somehow, I am OK with a small serving of this salad.