Monday, January 12, 2009

"Boiled" ham - better than it sounds

Mom introduced me to the idea of boiled ham, which she prepared for some holiday (I don't remember which).  Over the years, I've decided that for busy holidays and for potlucks or buffets, "boiled" (actually, gently simmered) ham makes a lot of sense. It frees up the oven for other foods, and the ham is a little less salty than a baked ham.  You run less risk of over-cooking or of scorching a glazed ham in the holiday rush.

A "boiled" ham generally doesn't look as impressive as a baked ham. If you're a fan of glazed ham, try turning your favorite glaze ingredients into a sauce and serve it alongside the ham to partially compensate for the missing sight of a gloriously glazed ham. Then people who want their ham "straight" have a choice. And the leftovers are useful in more ways. You might even throw caution to the wind and offer two different sauces or condiments.

You could hardly pick an easier choice for a buffet or potluck. You can start a slow cooker on high heat and turn to low heat after the ham has heated through, or cook overnight on low heat.  For holidays, you can even cook your ham in a slow-cooker a room other than the kitchen if you need to. Same with one of those large electric roasters that go on sale just before Thanksgiving.

Types of ham to choose:  Spiral-sliced ham DOES NOT work out well when simmered like this. Though I prefer natural, bone-in hams, I have had good luck doing inexpensive (but not the very cheapest) formed hams in an oval slow-cooker.  All the hams I have prepared this way have been pre-cooked.  For saltier "country" hams, typical directions call for covering the ham with water in a pot just larger than the ham, simmering for several hours then turning off the heat and leaving the ham in the liquid.  Look up the full directions before doing a country ham.

Directions:  To simmer a bone-in ham on top of the stove, choose a shank or butt portion which fits into a heavy-bottomed kettle which you already have. You can cut off a piece and place it to the side if the ham is too wide, but it's difficult to accomodate a shank bone which is too tall for your pot. Place cut-side down in about 1/2  inch to an inch of water and simmer gently for several hours. Check and replenish water occasionally. The key to a tasty, tender result is to cook it slowly for a long time, but not to use too much water.  About 1/2 inch of water in the bottom of the pan is usually about right to start.  The ham may release more liquid as it cooks.

I've done small formed hams in a 3-quart slow cooker in half an inch of water, and a small butt portion of a natural ham in an oval 6-quart slow cooker. The natural hams I've cooked this way have been wonderful, and the formed hams have been better than baked formed hams.   Always turn off the heat completely at least half an hour before serving.

I have simmered a 22 pound pre-cooked natural whole ham in an 18-quart electric roaster for 6 hours at 265 degrees, leaving the ham in the roaster with heat turned off for an additional hour and a half. I added just a pint of water.  But remember Mark Twain's definition of eternity as "two people and a ham" and plan your quantities accordingly.

If you let the ham it cook too long, it can get TOO tender, so be prepared to turn the slow cooker or roaster to "warm" after several hours, say, if you cooked it overnight and you're serving it at noon. If you let the ham boil or simmer too long, it could become a little stringy.  It is particularly important in this case to let the ham "rest" in the pot with the heat turned off before trying to slice it.  A too-tender ham is better sliced warm than hot.

Save the liquid and leftovers for bean, lentil or potato and ham soup and other dishes.

Migraine and allergy information: Many migraineurs are sensitive to cured meats, which often contain vasoactive compounds. Don't overdo it with ham even if you've never noticed a problem before. Some people get migraines from all pork, especially when eaten more than once within a few days. Many hams contain corn sweeteners. Check the label.

Stocking up: Hams keep quite well in the refrigerator and can be left out in a cool location for a little while during winter. Fully cooked hams can be served without cooking if the power goes out. Though you might think that hams would keep practically forever in the freezer, long freezer storage is not recommended by sources I have read. They may lose quality in the freezer faster than some fresh meats (not that the ham would become unsafe). Check recent recommendations from authoritative sources.

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